Silverballer replica MARK 2 and MARK 3. The closest to perfection

Depends what are you searching for, airsoft or real? Blackballer or Silverballer.

The Silverballer doesn’t exist, not as a real gun and not as a toy one. You have to pick up a an existing version and starting to add some modification. Such as the things I’m replicating above

I know, but I don’t have resources or skill to do it. Maybe a Blackballer(-ish) model you know off. Air-soft btw

Neither do I. What you see are created by people who are capable. I just give an existing piece, give some photos illustrating what there is to be modified and then wait.

Oh well, i just skimmed through it. Thought you did it yourself :sweat_smile:. Maybe I will get one later. Thx for the advise.

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The problem here is you can own a gun with a shooting club license and there are no shops. We usually go to Germany but they don’t sell nor create guns like this. Also shipping isn’t allowed so that’s my problem actually.

I think that’s the case in every European country. In Italy there are 2 types of permit to own a weapon.
Hunting permit and sport permit. Occasionally the police will come at your home once a year to check if you are keeping the weapons under lock according by law.

But since I don’t really care about real guns I’m very happy with steel replicas.


And we’re not allowed to have them without permit as well

I did notice that–similar goal, we just work in different media. In a way, yours is more challenging, actually, because I can call up various custom shops and have them do the engraving so all I have to do is pay for everything and fit the parts together. :slight_smile:

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That is pretty much what I’m doing, only that the pieces for airsoft weapons doesn’t exist so I’m creating them with the help of a 3D designer.

Actually, the Silver is specifically (albeit with some custom markings and a little fictionalizing) modeled after an AMT Hardballer, and the Longslide is modeled after the same AMT Longslide the Terminator used. AMT used a unique 7"-barrel version of the LS configuration, while every other Longslide builder uses only 6". (The first Longslides were made by Jim Clark, cutting the front 1" off one slide and brazing it onto a second.)

If memory serves, AMT made the HB in both blued and stainless. Not trying to argue, just to contribute additional info as someone who’s been in a position of having to entrust his life and those of others to similar weapons on a daily basis. :slight_smile:

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Actually I enjoy reading your knowledge.

The thing with my replica is that at the same time I’m trying to keep some things real how it should be like on a real gun.

For example: this final replica I’m working out is considered to be the most accurate replica of a 1911. Accurate in colors, size and weight. There some parts where the finish is brushed and some where is only paint.
A bit afraid that it might look very different if I scrap the paint, I decided to let it as it is.

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Thanks–I tend to get carried away on geeky technical stuff… I’m really a Poindexter by nature, just was forced to step into The Line because a young lady I was smitten with had a stalker and nobody else was stepping up to the job. Young, stupid and head over heels for the first time… That said, there are lessons learned there that have served me well in my “second act” as a historian too.

If the 47 Build goes forward on my end and you ever find yourself headed to my part of the US, unless there’s something that’d make you a “prohibited person” in your background you have an open invitation out to the range for a checkout session on it. :slight_smile:

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Mannnn I would love to!!! Never got in trouble and USA is on my list of places to visit even because I grew up with American movies.
Where are you exactly located?

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Seattle area right now, hoping to change that because the area’s turning into a free-range lunatic asylum. We also have a top-flight air museum here if you’re into wingnuttery, with one of the old Air Force One 707’s and the first 747 jumbo-jet among its collection holdings.

Rear sight looks like a Novak Adjustable–this plus the Pachmayr grips would fit the profile of 47 favoring a very high-end, possibly even “full house” custom, target pistol for the precise nature of his work. I have a few high-level custom gunsmiths in my Rolodex, so once I have screengrabs I might start by firing off notes to ask them what parts they’d use to replicate these irons.

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I’m taking it to engrave Friday and it will take some serious time to finish. I took some pieces today to be modify such as the trigger and the slide release.
The Slide Release needs to be adjust on the inside. Outside is perfect. And the trigger need to be modify again especially in length. At the end I decided to make it look like the ingame/real Hardballer version.

I won’t update this topic with posts any more because I want to keep the surprise, but I would like to show you one of the last pieces of the puzzle.
The rail with front sight (prototype). I’m very proud how its coming up so far.
But this piece also requires a modification. Bar will be slimmed down jut by a bit and sight needs to be positioned further more.



One other thing worth noting: These guns also might show variation from game to game simply because as a professional 47 might tinker with and upgrade things as new and improved parts hit market. For example we’ve seen a mix of flared (H2:SA) and unflared (Absolution? last pic above) ejection ports, though most seem to be consistently WWI/WWII-style high–I haven’t seen any lowereds yet. That slide in the last pic above has a very strange ejection port, the back starts out as a High and then slopes up to an impractical Even Higher.

Also, a pistol used with a suppressor usually requires larger, raised sights to see the target over the can.

For comparison, here’s my old duty sidearm, which has old-school GI-type sights with lowered-and-flared ejection… a lot more basic, pretty No Frills actually, but it has a really well-done set of internals hand-fitted by a gun-club friend who knew that lives were going to be bet on the quality of his work.

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Also worth noting that sight-ribs are generally for lighter “target” loads than full-power hardball or Serious Social Work hollowpoints. Combat loads tend to put enough recoil force on the slide to dislodge full-size (ie, as wide as rear sight) ribs…

That part over there is a fantasy made by IO to make it different. From Contracts to Blood Money the ejection port was the same and as you find on a real gun.
From Absolution I never gave it too much tough besides being a design decision.

I won’t replicate that part on the Silverballer but I’m highly considering to replicate again the Blackballer on another INOKATSU Colt and make a cut at the ejection port to be equal to how it is portrayed on the Blackballer and Silverballer.

This Silverballer replica (Mark 3) will be inspired from the Contracts version. Only things kept from Absolution will be the logo with out the flame on the right side situated in the frame and will replicate identical the rail on top, or how you showed us it’s called Sight Rib

Speaking about re making the Blackballer, I had this crazy idea to buy another pistol like this airsoft, sand down every engraving and any paint, re painted in a very dark black color and add all the essentials.
But it’s just a tough.

I keep thinking about your theory to use a black gun during night hours and your friend’s experience so you are less visible and I like it a lot. The concept of it is badass let’s say.

Most of us who CCW usually use dark guns and dark clothing so we don’t spook the sheeple and get on the wrong side of a Murder-by-Proxy via false 911 “SCARY MAN WITH GUN!” (which means anybody the bed-wetters think MIGHT have a gun, no matter how peacable their conduct) call.

Nicely polished or dark/matte, each have their times and places. If I’m attending a Texas BBQ where Open Carry of your finest is encouraged, nickel-plated and mirror-polished all the way. If I’m putting on The Suit again and need to not be seen, back to matte in shoulder holster under my suit jacket.

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I am very impress about how hard the material is. At this point there is no need to print it in titanium.
Don’t get fooled by it’s looks. Once polished it has a silver look.

This was my first Stainless printing.

Difference between integrated Thumb Safety and my modeled one

EDIT: This is how it looks under. I tried to polish it quick with sandpaper. So far so good.