Silverballer replica MARK 2. The closest to perfection


#21

Small update on the next replica Mark 3.

I was studying the movement and mechanism of the trigger and came to the conclusion that it does not need a “complicate” form inside to hold the bar that is attached to the trigger.
Once the trigger is inside the gun and apparently no matter how thin/short the bar that holds it inside is, it can not move. It will stay still inside and can only move back and forward.
But yet I have no idea why the bar has this strange form to hold the trigger. Any way, to keep it fixed that bar inside my trigger I will glue it with something very very resistant.

I contacted asap the 3D artist to make the modification. It should work just fine like this.
In the meanwhile I contacted the guys who made me the silencer to print in plastic the 3 triggers and the thumb safety with the slide release.

Will be back when I’m going to have the prototypes in hand :hugs:

MODIFICA%20Trigger_07
Trigger_15

Trigger_13
Trigger_14

taglio


#22

First piece was printed today in plastic to see if there is any modification needed. The thumb safety.
And there is something. The extensions need to be larger from when viewed on the top and also needs to be by just a little put lower, so it will go along in a straight line with the plunger tube.

There is another particular, but the gun in se is made that way and so does a real one. Making it shorter will not only cost money to remake everything but also might screw up the internal mechanism and it won’t be functional.

Next month, exactly when I going to get paid at work, will make the rest of the prototypes.
I would also like to introduce the only pieces on the market that were available and compatible with this model.
They are more silvered colored compared with the rest of the gun. So far I don’t mind. They are all from the brand NOVA Airsoft

1911%20Serrated%20Housing


#23

I took a couple of months ago at the airsoft shop the slide of the new gun to remove the sights.
It had no screws on the inside so it seemed that they were glued. At the shop they told me that they were affraid to ruin such a masterpiece and they decided to not get involed.

Me, an ambitionist fan that want this replica done perfect at all cost would not give up. So I did it the Italian way A forza di martellate e bestemmie which translated means With the force of hammering and blasphemies and its beautiful.

I succeed to remove the sight with a screw driver and a hammer. I was very nervous that I could ruin the paint on top and I didn’t almost. There some sign of scratches near the area of the rear sight but nothing to drive me crazy.
In time there will more scratches on it and that would make it look used in a good way.

After studying the gun more carefully I came to the conclusion that the rail on top will be separated and not one piece.
This will be done for the only reason that the INOKATSU company is not responding to my emails where asking for a sample of the paint. I don’t want to risk it in making it look very different. But I will propose some alternatives and see the option.

I am going to drill 3 holes on top of the slide so in this way I’m sure the rails are going to stay still and not move.
The gun will be taken next month at the engravings villva to start the works on the finish and the rest and by 15 July I should have some new prototypes to share. Including the trigger.


#24

Is it just the picture? The holes you drilled dosen’t look like they line up? So I draw a line in Paint and when the line is in a straight line, the holes looks a bit off:

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:open_mouth: :grimacing:, I really hope i’m wrong.

Edit.

Maybe it’s wrong to use Paint, because it’s way off in the end of the slide, it should be in the middle here:

Uten%20navn

Phew, thank god for that :joy:, it is a very expensive slide and remember to messure twice and drill holes once :wink:.


#25

Don’t worry. It will be straight on the gun. I made the holes in paint for illustration.


#26

I’m facing some unexpected problems with the rear sight. The problem was always there but only now that I’m starting the project of it I notice.

My aim is to make the rear sight the same one from the game. On the previous Mark 2 I decided to use a real one. But I can’t make my mind if I like how it looks or not.
Now here is the problem, while with the real sight I have the base of the sight insertion covered, re creating the one from the game will leave a big portion showing and looks bad from my point of view.
I need to come up with something. Use the same size as the real one or create the slim version from the game but filling up somehow those empty spaces.

Here is an illustration how large the rail will be and what is left uncovered with the rear sight attached.

And now here is a comparison of how much less space I need and how it looks with the real sight attached.
As you can see, the real life sight will cover all that space.

So what exactly is the difference between the real sight and the Sileballer one? It tightness in the middle
on the Silverballer, the rail on top has to cut thru the sight, while leaving the real one will have to just reach the beginning of it. Making it touch on top will make the rail too tall for what I have in mind and what looks good.

I need to come up with something. Let some empty spaces show or hide them some how.


#27

most simple way: Make rail thicker than actual game


#28

I toughed about that. But my aim with perfection won’t let me :crazy_face: I’ll see how it looks with the empty space, after that I think the only option left is to make it larger at this point.


#29

This is the perfect music to listen to while looking at images of @badeaguard 's work of art.


#30

Deus ex machina


#31

I just had a similar idea to make the rail. Will be one single long block but then it will be cut, sanded I don’t know what is called to replicate that empty space in between.

Actually this seems the best option.


#32

Today I put at work the guys who made me the silencer with a better and more precise replica of the Blackballer supressor.

After observing it better I realized that I made a mistake with the length. It should be shorter.
Then there was a suggestion to make a cap at the end of the silencer how it is originally shown in the images, but I refused at that time thinking it might look better.
Today I changed my mind and I want to replicate that cap/ silver ring at the end of the silencer, resulting hopefully more stylish.

The silencer will be realized this time with out the engravings. I need to decide if to make them this time by the same company that does the engravings on the gun or let it blank. Decisions, decisions, decisions…


#33

SUCCESS!!!
There is more to come next week. I will introduce the front sight with the rail and a modification to the grips that make them look indeed 100% like in the game.

But… the hole in the trigger is a bit “slim” for my taste. I will make it larger. For the rest so far is really perfect.


#34

I’m proceeding with the plans for the rear sight. Probably the easiest thing to do now but I estimated there will be 2-3 prototypes to be made before I get the size right.
These photos under are just illustrated details for the measurements here and there using a real sight that apparently is the one the Silverballer was inspired from.
In 5 days I shall have ready the prototype of the front sight with the rail. I can’t wait.

Regarding the previous stamp I have problems with the trigger. My plan on how is holding on that thin bar is not working as I tough. But I came up with something to hold it still inside using after all it’s original interior design. Also the hole in the middle needs to be a little more larger. I don’t like how it looks.
Good thing I’m doing this in plastic first.

Instead for the first time, finally the Slide release and Thumb Safety are perfect. But there might be a small modification to be made at the thumb safety so it could stay in a straight line with the slide release.
So far it doesn’t bother me. For the moment.

Unfortunately I think this replica will be ready in the next 4 months to follow. It will take at least 2 months and a half to have it engraved, then I have to go back to the same place to have some pieces polished and the rail cut in the middle by laser.
But at the end it’s going to be perfect.


#35

Interesting project… Someday I intend to build a set in Live Iron myself.

Re parts and cosmetic changes, it could be that 47 hasn’t carried the same exact custom AMT’s through his entire career–frankly, I know a lot of guys who’ve owned AMT’s that had nothing but trouble and these guys had carried WWII Colts in combat new-from-box! Thinking that my own run at 47’s may not be stainless but go nickel-plated instead…

That top structure is actually not a rail but what’s called a “Sight Rib”–it’s commonly used on shotguns (sorry, typo, did NOT mean to insult shotties) and some high-end custom competition pistols. Just a technical note. :slight_smile:

SUPREMELY cool would be if IO would cut a deal with somebody over here in the States to do a limited run of real-steel 47 sets… those would be worth shaving my head and getting a barcode tattoo for. LOL


#36

Looks like @badeaguard finally met his match. :slight_smile:

The only way this gets better is if @Diamondback is also pissed about the fake Blackballer. Hahaha.


#37

Sorry, not so much. While it’s not 47’s “default,” there are certain situations where a darker or matte finish (I prefer late-WWII Parkerized myself) does have its advantages and I could easily see 47 selecting a “Blackballer” for those situations. On the other hand, I know a guy who once had somebody trying to run him off the road one night and he believes holding his nickeled .45 up to be seen in the highbeams coming through his rearview saved his life…

At this point I’ve hand cut a couple 80% AR15 lowers, it’s gonna be a while before I work up to 1911’s. :slight_smile: A LOT more machining there, not to mention more hand-fitting of parts… (The AR was the first weapon designed via “industrial product” processes, while the 1911 is a legacy of a time when machinework was expensive and manual labor was cheap.) Frankly, while I believe in “always try to do better” I respect anyone who’s committed to a craft and builds things with his own hands. Besides, airsoft, live iron… the people who brownload their buttfloss at one usually do so at the other too.


#38

Hi there, nice to met someone who knows stuff on weapons.

I hope you realized that this project of mine is made on a toy, arisoft weapon and not a real one.
Pretty much I discovered the name and the functionality of all pieces by observing and replicating what I see.

My goal is to make this gun identical to the Silverballer but at the same time functional. I like a lot weapons, but I’m more a fan of identical replicas such as this one, the Inokatsu Colt Series 70’s.


#39

I am not capable of creating a Silverballer myself, but the closest one is

Should I get one?


#40

That is something very very different. Closest thing to a Silverballer is a normal Colt 1911.